Important Coverages to look for on your Homeowner's policy

Many people go years without ever knowing what is covered on their home insurance policies because they never look past the primary coverage ammounts listed on their dec. pages - that's why I made this list for everyone. Below, I have compiled a list of important coverags to look for on your homeowner's policies - please be sure to compare them with what is currently covered on your policy in order to avoid any headaches later on down the road.

Replacement Cost Coverage on Contents: Pays for the replacement value, as opposed to the actual cash value (replacement minus depreciation) of your contents.
Example: Your $30,000 couch has been damaged by a covered loss. Without replacement cost coverage, your company will pay you the current cash value of that couch, which may be $15,000, as opposed to the cost to replace the couch, which may now cost well over $30,000.

All Risk Peril on Contents: As opposed to “Named Peril”, “All Risk” coverage, covers your property for all possible losses unless they are specifically excluded within your policy. Some examples of common losses only covered with the enhanced “all risk” coverage are: 1) Unforeseen accidents like spilling of wine or paint onto your rug or couch 2) Broken furniture during a move 3) Damage other than mold, caused by temperature or dampness (due to rain, sleet or snow), 4) Mysterious disappearance (due to the loss or misplacement of an item), and many more. In insurance terms, a named peril policy is referred to as an HO-3 and an all risk is referred to as an HO-5.

True Replacement Cost on your Dwelling: The cost to replace your home has been estimated at (example: $500,000). An unfortunate loss has destroyed your home, which now needs to be replaced. After a review by the loss adjuster, your home is calculated at $800,000 to replace. Almost all companies have “replacement caps” which allow an additional specified percentage (usually 25%) of additional coverage to be added to your dwelling amount to compensate for an underinsured value. With this “cap”, you are now entitled to an extra 25% (of your dwelling’s replacement value), giving you a total of $625,000 to rebuild your home, with the difference being paid out of pocket. To protect yourself against this, be sure to ask for a high replacement cap (such as 50%) or a “non cap” replacement policy, offered through select companies such as Chubb, AIG or Fireman’s Fund, which will agree to pay whatever it costs to rebuild your house.

Off Premises Theft: Covers your personal property for any theft loss that may take place away from your primary location.
Example: Your luggage is stolen while on vacation, or your vehicle gets broken into while it’s parked at work and you realize that your laptop and golf clubs have been stolen. Without having the OPT endorsement on your policy, in scenarios such as this you will not be able to collect any reimbursement for any of your stolen property.

Windstorm Deductible: Many policies today include automatic windstorm deductibles (usually 2.5% to 5% of your dwelling amount) that are applied to claims for wind/hurricane losses. This means that the owner of a $500,000 house could pay a deductible anywhere from $12,500 to $25,000 in the event of a wind loss damaging their dwelling. In order to ensure that you don’t have this “hidden” within your policy, be sure to ask your agent or read through your policy declarations.

Identity Theft/Fraud Coverage: Pretty self explanatory! Identity theft is among the most commonly committed crimes in the U.S and it can quickly become a very costly problem to fix, often times leading into the tens or hundreds of thousands depending on the complexity. Make sure your policy covers you against ID theft/ID fraud so that you are well protected.

Water Backup: While flood is normally excluded from a homeowner’s policy, you can opt to add (via an endorsement) water backup coverage which would cover your property for any damages that may stem from the result of water backing up from an outside source (such as a sewer) and entering your house via any drainage outlet that may be located in your basement or attached garage, etc..
Example: You have a drainage pipe running from your basement to the sewer line outside and the sewers get backed up as a result of being clogged with excess leaves which causes water to enter your house from the inside. Any property that is damaged from that resulting water, would be covered up to the policy coverage amount indicated for water backup. Please note that, by definition, any water that had entered your house from the outside is considered a flood loss.

Oil tank coverage: A very often overlooked coverage, but also extremely important. A leaking underground oil tank can result in losses in excess of $100,000 (and that’s not uncommon), due to the cost of cleanup, decontamination, soil replacement, etc…Today, luckily most homes are not built with underground oil tanks, but should you have an older home and you are aware that your tank is buried beneath the ground, it is definitely in your best interest to have a pressure test completed in order to ensure that the tank is in good shape and to locate a carrier that will cover oil tank leakage. While there are only a VERY few selected carriers offer this coverage, the premiums for these higher end companies are usually considerably more expensive, but again, when considering what a loss could cost you, it may be feasible to pay the extra premium in the end. Please inquire with your carrier of their terms and conditions when it comes to covering oil tank leakage as coverage can vary.

I hope this helps! Should anyone have any additional questions, feel free to post them – I’ll check up periodically.



*** Please note that the above guide is to be used only as a type of glossary of coverage terms in relation to homeowner’s insurance policies. In no way am I advising what to purchase or what not to purchase. It’s sole intention is to educate the general population of commonly overlooked coverages among policies today. Please note that these are general definitions and may vary slightly from state to state. It is highly recommended that you further inquire, with your current agent, about the above coverages, in order to help you figure out what is and what is not included within your policy and to help you figure out which coverages are right for you. ***
 
Many people go years without ever knowing what is covered on their home insurance policies because they never look past the primary coverage ammounts listed on their dec. pages - that's why I made this list for everyone. Below, I have compiled a list of important coverags to look for on your homeowner's policies - please be sure to compare them with what is currently covered on your policy in order to avoid any headaches later on down the road.

Replacement Cost Coverage on Contents: Pays for the replacement value, as opposed to the actual cash value (replacement minus depreciation) of your contents.
Example: Your $30,000 couch has been damaged by a covered loss. Without replacement cost coverage, your company will pay you the current cash value of that couch, which may be $15,000, as opposed to the cost to replace the couch, which may now cost well over $30,000.

All Risk Peril on Contents: As opposed to “Named Peril”, “All Risk” coverage, covers your property for all possible losses unless they are specifically excluded within your policy. Some examples of common losses only covered with the enhanced “all risk” coverage are: 1) Unforeseen accidents like spilling of wine or paint onto your rug or couch 2) Broken furniture during a move 3) Damage other than mold, caused by temperature or dampness (due to rain, sleet or snow), 4) Mysterious disappearance (due to the loss or misplacement of an item), and many more. In insurance terms, a named peril policy is referred to as an HO-3 and an all risk is referred to as an HO-5.

True Replacement Cost on your Dwelling: The cost to replace your home has been estimated at (example: $500,000). An unfortunate loss has destroyed your home, which now needs to be replaced. After a review by the loss adjuster, your home is calculated at $800,000 to replace. Almost all companies have “replacement caps” which allow an additional specified percentage (usually 25%) of additional coverage to be added to your dwelling amount to compensate for an underinsured value. With this “cap”, you are now entitled to an extra 25% (of your dwelling’s replacement value), giving you a total of $625,000 to rebuild your home, with the difference being paid out of pocket. To protect yourself against this, be sure to ask for a high replacement cap (such as 50%) or a “non cap” replacement policy, offered through select companies such as Chubb, AIG or Fireman’s Fund, which will agree to pay whatever it costs to rebuild your house.

Off Premises Theft: Covers your personal property for any theft loss that may take place away from your primary location.
Example: Your luggage is stolen while on vacation, or your vehicle gets broken into while it’s parked at work and you realize that your laptop and golf clubs have been stolen. Without having the OPT endorsement on your policy, in scenarios such as this you will not be able to collect any reimbursement for any of your stolen property.

Windstorm Deductible: Many policies today include automatic windstorm deductibles (usually 2.5% to 5% of your dwelling amount) that are applied to claims for wind/hurricane losses. This means that the owner of a $500,000 house could pay a deductible anywhere from $12,500 to $25,000 in the event of a wind loss damaging their dwelling. In order to ensure that you don’t have this “hidden” within your policy, be sure to ask your agent or read through your policy declarations.

Identity Theft/Fraud Coverage: Pretty self explanatory! Identity theft is among the most commonly committed crimes in the U.S and it can quickly become a very costly problem to fix, often times leading into the tens or hundreds of thousands depending on the complexity. Make sure your policy covers you against ID theft/ID fraud so that you are well protected.

Water Backup: While flood is normally excluded from a homeowner’s policy, you can opt to add (via an endorsement) water backup coverage which would cover your property for any damages that may stem from the result of water backing up from an outside source (such as a sewer) and entering your house via any drainage outlet that may be located in your basement or attached garage, etc..
Example: You have a drainage pipe running from your basement to the sewer line outside and the sewers get backed up as a result of being clogged with excess leaves which causes water to enter your house from the inside. Any property that is damaged from that resulting water, would be covered up to the policy coverage amount indicated for water backup. Please note that, by definition, any water that had entered your house from the outside is considered a flood loss.

Oil tank coverage: A very often overlooked coverage, but also extremely important. A leaking underground oil tank can result in losses in excess of $100,000 (and that’s not uncommon), due to the cost of cleanup, decontamination, soil replacement, etc…Today, luckily most homes are not built with underground oil tanks, but should you have an older home and you are aware that your tank is buried beneath the ground, it is definitely in your best interest to have a pressure test completed in order to ensure that the tank is in good shape and to locate a carrier that will cover oil tank leakage. While there are only a VERY few selected carriers offer this coverage, the premiums for these higher end companies are usually considerably more expensive, but again, when considering what a loss could cost you, it may be feasible to pay the extra premium in the end. Please inquire with your carrier of their terms and conditions when it comes to covering oil tank leakage as coverage can vary.

I hope this helps! Should anyone have any additional questions, feel free to post them – I’ll check up periodically.



*** Please note that the above guide is to be used only as a type of glossary of coverage terms in relation to homeowner’s insurance policies. In no way am I advising what to purchase or what not to purchase. It’s sole intention is to educate the general population of commonly overlooked coverages among policies today. Please note that these are general definitions and may vary slightly from state to state. It is highly recommended that you further inquire, with your current agent, about the above coverages, in order to help you figure out what is and what is not included within your policy and to help you figure out which coverages are right for you. ***

Do you have any experience with insuring multi-family apartment buildings? I'm curious to know if there is anything else an investor should look for in a contract. Thanks.
 
You might be able to get a discount if you insure multiple apartment buildings with the same insurance carrier.
 
It is extremely important that the contract includes "blanket coverage." I am not sure if that is avaliable everywhere but it is in Oregon.

For me to add this on to a policy the cost is about 5 bucks, regardless the size of the contract. Without blanket coverage each building is only covered for its individual value.

For instance, if your Apartment has 10 buildings, and they are each valued at 200,000 each, the blanket amount would be 2,000,000. As long as you kept up your insurance, and made sure that you did not have a co-insurance issue (under insuring the complex as a whole) you would normally not come up with any issues if any individual unit was damaged or destroyed. This is because even thoug each building may be insured at 200,000 if the damage was greater you would be able to use some of the other 2,000,000.

Most consumers assume that this is the way that they are covered, but you would be suprised how many times the Agent leaves this option out of the contract.

NWInsurance
 
Good luck trying to get a HO3 or higher in the gulf region or even Houston where I am at.

My agent tried telling me "Our new HO2 PLUS policies are even better than HO3..." which is of course BS.

I found Allstate to be slimy, dropped them.

I found Nationwide to have the best rates in Houston, although their auto rates went high - so now that I dropped the auto I am told my Home Owners will sky rocket, because of the discount games they all play.

And mold coverage - forget about it, unless you want to pay DOUBLE premiums for limited coverage. People were MOLD crazy and abusing the system for a long time in Texas.

The most important thing I learned is to ALWAYS buy the Federal Flood Insurance!!! People seem to think FLOOD is only some great storm, which could not be further from the truth.

I have seen a lot of arguments over "rising water" - don't chance it buy the Flood protection, in my opinion anyhow.

As to Salpro22 question - wouldn't you guys / gals recommend a good solid UMBRELLA policy if you have multi properties ? I had a huge Umbrella for maybe $300/$400 a year back when I was in my landlord days (NEVER AGAIN!!! lol...)
 
The Nationwide policy is one of the more robust policies written in TX. As for the auto, we are a little high but with the accident forgiveness, life-time guarantee on repairs and most claims being handled within 24 hours... we're talking value, not price...right.
 
The Nationwide policy is one of the more robust policies written in TX. As for the auto, we are a little high
On home owners I agree - it is what I have.

On auto - try a lot high.

I switched to Geico in Katy and saved around 40%, same coverage levels.

P&C rates are a roller coaster up , down, up, down - this is normal in the business.

The real problem is now that I dropped my auto at some point they might slam me with my home owners costs since I lose the discounts? Hasn't happened yet - but I can see this coming soon.

And flood - I truly can't believe ANYONE would not buy flood , no matter where you live.
 
Very true, our auto is not competitive price wise. The value we try to build in, OEM coverage, which states that no matter where you take your vehicle to be repaired, NW will make sure only OEM products are used to repair it. Blue Ribbon Repair Centers, repairs guaranteed for the life of the vehicle, A+ rated claims service. Again, I try to take price out of the picture and build value, that also includes of course the customer service the agent/agency provides. Three weeks after someone signs we have a lady that calls and makes sure the client has received their policy, name and address are correct, do they have any questions, and the final question, on a scale of 0 to 10 with 10 being the best, would you refer the agent you worked with to friends and family? If we get a mark below a 7, we get a call from corporate, then we call the client and ask what we can do to make it right. I'm not about selling an auto policy. The ratio of retention is so small. I would rather work on 1 family and sell Home, Auto, IM, PUL, Flood, Life and Health than 7 people for 7 autos. The one family will stay with me forever the more policies they have with me.

And yes, your homeowners will go up about 20% for the auto going to the lizard.
 
We also give all of our clients an "I love you" call about a month before renewal, we make sure everything is the same with coverages, no new cars, new jewelry, divorce.... Then we ask if they would like their agent contact them for a review/assesment.
 

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