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[LostDollar]

Is the Athene MYG sold through agents, or does one need to communicate directly with Athene to buy it?

Do carriers have provisions for direct sales to consumers when a consumer's desired annuity premium falls below an amount an agent will accept for a sale?

It is sold by agents. I do not know of any carriers with an avenue for direct sales of annuities to consumers.

This is going to turn into a challenging purchasing project then.

The product is not listed by Online Sellers:
Annuity dot org
Immediate Annuities
Blueprint Income
Shawn Plummer
Annuity Advantage
New Horizons
Annuity Resources
Stan the Annuity Man

Ins Agent A, has $25K purchase minimum.

Ins Agent B (large online seller), has $20K purchase minimum.

Ins Agent C, local, says:
Athene's minimum purchase requirement is $10K
Athene orders are heavily backed up
And he can get me better rates so I should come see him.
(not likely since he is a half hour drive -one way-across town from me and the postcard he sent me was promoting American Life's 3 year American Classic at 4.25%. Since American Life is a B rated company, I would guess his other recommendations would also be B rated, which I am gathering most of you would not suggest as optimum choices for me to consider.)

I have one more email in to a national seller, I hope to have a response on that early next week, it will probably also be a no, so I will then need to develop another approach.

 

[Tahoe Ray]

Lets attempt to settle/explain this.

I believe this is what people are somewhat saying when thinking about this topic......but maybe not. Not saying this is the thought, but I think this is why there is a debate here as to whether 1 day a year ends up being equal to 12 months.

Here is comparison of the last 12 months had someone had 100% in an index product with 0% floor, 9% cap & 100% participation rate. $120,000 from 1 day last year to 1 day this year compared to having $10,000 each month having 1 day, so therefore 12 days. A person doing this the last 12 months would be substantially better, having been able to make almost 4% instead of a 13% loss (0% credited)

PS-- reminds me of how I would love to find a way to start dollar cost averaging back in the market right now on a daily incremental basis, but most places I find only allow it to be set up on a monthly basis & who wants to guess at mutual fund/ETF value on 21 different days a month?

View attachment 8175

That's not what we're talking about. We're talking about a monthly point to point crediting strategy. Not a DCA strategy.

It is sold by agents. I do not know of any carriers with an avenue for direct sales of annuities to consumers.

Canvas does. They are underwritten by Puritan Life.

 

[Allen Trent]

hat's not what we're talking about. We're talking about a monthly point to point crediting strategy. Not a DCA strategy.

I know, I am thinking that LD might be thinking this could be how monthly is better than annual.

 

[LostDollar]

It is sold by agents. I do not know of any carriers with an avenue for direct sales of annuities to consumers.

Canvas does. They are underwritten by Puritan Life.

Yes, and NassauRe does as well. However, my concern is not with those B rated companies, but with an A rated company that appears to have a product "hidden" from agents.

 

[Tahoe Ray]

Yes, and NassauRe does as well. However, my concern is not with those B rated companies, but with an A rated company that appears to have a product "hidden" from agents.

I would go to whoever you bank with. You'll have an agent/advisor still but some banks have special products that aren't distributed through normal channels from a few major carriers.

 

[LostDollar]

I would go to whoever you bank with. You'll have an agent/advisor still but some banks have special products that aren't distributed through normal channels from a few major carriers.

Great idea, thank you. One of my credit unions has a wealth advisor listed on their dashboard. I can start with him. I feel rather like a sheep going out amongst the wolves, but I'll see how it goes.

 

[scagnt83]

LD, the "difference in the ending index value and beginning index value" is literally the sum of those 12 months.

If it begins at 100 and ends at 112, the difference is 12 right?

But another way of calculating that is to just add each months return together:

m0= 100
m1= 101
m2= 102
m3= 103
m4= 104
m5= 105
m6= 106
m7= 107
m8= 108
m9= 109
m10= 110
m11= 111
m12= 112

The difference between the ending and beginning is the sum of those months added together.

In the above example, you can take 112 - 100 and get 12. Or, you can add the gain from each month together (1 point per month over 12 months) .... and get 12.

 

[LostDollar]

LD, the "difference in the ending index value and beginning index value" is literally the sum of those 12 months.

If it begins at 100 and ends at 112, the difference is 12 right?

But another way of calculating that is to just add each months return together:

m0= 100
m1= 101
m2= 102
m3= 103
m4= 104
m5= 105
m6= 106
m7= 107
m8= 108
m9= 109
m10= 110
m11= 111
m12= 112

The difference between the ending and beginning is the sum of those months added together.

In the above example, you can take 112 - 100 and get 12. Or, you can add the gain from each month together (1 point per month over 12 months) .... and get 12.

I provided you with two definitions of Annual Point to Point in an earlier post. Neither of them has sums of anything. They are a difference between two points converted to a percent. I don't know what kind of Annual Point to Point computation you are talking about, but it is not Annual Point to Point as defined by Investopedia or Midland.

 

[scagnt83]

I provided you with two definitions of Annual Point to Point in an earlier post. Neither of them has sums of anything. They are a difference between two points converted to a percent. I don't know what kind of Annual Point to Point computation you are talking about, but it is not Annual Point to Point as defined by Investopedia or Midland.

LD.

It is the change of the index value from the beginning date to the end date.

There are 2 different ways you can calculate that:

1. Subtract beginning from the end.

2. Add each months gains.

The mathematical result is exactly the same. (as I demonstrated in the previous post by listing each months return)

Adding each months gain is mathematically the same as subtracting the ending value from the beginning value.

The literal definition of an annual gain is each of the 12 months gains added together.

You are arguing that 10-5 is not the same as 1+1+1+1+1

 

[scagnt83]

This is going to turn into a challenging purchasing project then.

The product is not listed by Online Sellers:
Annuity dot org
Immediate Annuities
Blueprint Income
Shawn Plummer
Annuity Advantage
New Horizons
Annuity Resources
Stan the Annuity Man

Ins Agent A, has $25K purchase minimum.

Ins Agent B (large online seller), has $20K purchase minimum.

Ins Agent C, local, says:
Athene's minimum purchase requirement is $10K
Athene orders are heavily backed up
And he can get me better rates so I should come see him.
(not likely since he is a half hour drive -one way-across town from me and the postcard he sent me was promoting American Life's 3 year American Classic at 4.25%. Since American Life is a B rated company, I would guess his other recommendations would also be B rated, which I am gathering most of you would not suggest as optimum choices for me to consider.)

I have one more email in to a national seller, I hope to have a response on that early next week, it will probably also be a no, so I will then need to develop another approach.

Most online websites do not show every annuity available. Agents customize which annuities to show on those sites.

And just because they dont list it, doesnt mean they cant/wont sell it. Just ask.

Have you thought about purchasing an iBond? You can cash out after 1 year, but you loose 3 months interest if you cash out before 5 years. Individual - Series I Savings Bonds.)